Patricia A. Kaufmann, Philatelic Consultnat collage
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Trouble Spots

When is a TEN a 9? Confederate look-a-likes
as well as common forgeries of #9 and #10
by Robert Chambers and Patricia A. Kaufmann

How to recognize a TEN CENTS Confederate stamp and tell it from a 10-CENTS Confederate stamp and various reproductions are the topics of this guide. The Dietz #9, also Scott #9 is the second most elusive of the Confederate engraved issues. In many respects, it has a strong resemblance to the much more common, and less costly, numbers 11 and 12. The characteristics of the #9 that set it apart are easy to spot once you know what they are. This guide will illustrate those characteristics and compare them to the two similar designs of the Confederacy.



Dietz #9



Dietz #11AD



Dietz #12KB

Denomination of Stamp

The #9 has the value of the stamp expressed as "TEN CENTS". Numbers 10, 11 and 12 have the value of the stamp expressed as "10 CENTS". This is the most readily visible detail in determining if you have a #9 or something else. Confederate collectors refer to #9 as the "TEE-EE-NN" since the value is spelled out.



In this illustration the #9 is at the bottom, the #11 is in the middle and the
#12 is at the top. An example of #10 would very closely resemble that of #11.

Portrait Oval

From time to time, a stamp is offered where the tablet of value is not visible. It may be too heavily canceled to read, it may be covered by additional postage; it might be missing. There is an alternative detail to the usually definitive expression of value for determining if what you have is a #9.

Number 9 has a blank area separating the background of the portrait from the oval frame. The background in the portrait oval in the #9 is unique among these because it alone does not appear to have horizontal lines extending beyond the background area to reach the edges of the portrait oval. In fact, they are just so light that they are practically invisibile unless scrutinized closely under high power magnification. Numbers 10, 11 or 12 have more obvious horizontal lines connecting the crosshatched area to the oval frame.

Additionally, the portrait is a little bit higher in the oval in the Number 9. The top of the illustration below is along a horizontal line between the "a" and "t" of "States". Notice that the #11 and #12 show forehead above the eyebrow below this imaginary, and arbitrary, line. Using the same positioning the portrait in the #9 includes no eyebrow and no forehead.

A look at the bottom of the #9 portrait also shows that the rear point of the bust extends to the edge of the background. On numbers 10, 11 and 12 the rear point of the bust ends short of the edge of the crosshatching.



Detail of #9, #11 and #12. Note the difference in the
portrait background and the oval frame of the portrait in the leftmost, # 9 example.
The middle and right examples are #11 and #12 with more obvious cross-hatch lines.

Forgeries of T-E-N's and "Framelines" (#9 and #10)

Another area of concern with this design relates to reproductions. Two of the best known reproductions are the Sperati forgery and the Springfield Reproductions.

The Springfield Facsimiles



The leftmost stamp is the Springfield T-E-N #9, while the right is the Springfield "frameline" #10,
which is particularly easy to note by the four full frames (almost never found on the real stamp)

and the "writing" at lower left below the frameline.

These are the most commonly encountered of forgeries. Many years ago, a complete set of counterfeits were made up and marketed by a stamp dealer in Springfield, Massachusetts and these are known as "Springfield Facsimiles". The yellowish paper of the Springfield reproductions is of a different texture than the genuine stamp. Frequently, this difference is apparent in the images used on eBay where they are offered in profusion usually, but not always, described as facsimiles. There is a distinct woven texture that is not present on the genuine stamps. The face of the stamps is not a clear printing as would be expected from a copper engraved plate printing. Detail present in the original is lacking in the flat looking reproduction. These will often be back-stamped "facsimile" in various ink colors.

T-E-N #9 Sperati Counterfeits

The most deceptive counterfeits of Confederates general issues were done by Jean de Sperati, the French counterfeiting genius. The color of the T-E-N is very close to the original and easily confused with the genuine issues. The Sperati forgeries are very well executed and dangerous to even experienced collectors. They have a "flat" look to the printing, the first thing for which to look and compare with a known genuine copy.

There are two types of T-E-N Sperati counterfeits. Type A (shown at left above, example from a die proof) has a small colorless dot that appears in the dark area between "Confederate" and "POSTAGE"; a second colorless flaw appears just after the "E" of "POSTAGE"; and the "e" of "The" is missing the dot which serves as a cross-bar.

Type B (shown at right above) is similar to type A, but the colorless flaw between "Confederate" and "POSTAGE" is missing. The "T" and "E" of "TEN" appear to be joined at the top. "T" and "A" os "POSTAGE" are slightly closer together, with the bottom serifs touching or almost touching.

The "used", actually more properly called "canceled" copy (center example above) bears the cancel, amusingly enough, of NEW PAID (YORK)/JUL/10. This is clearly even more of a dead give-away than the uncanceled varieties.

The two right examples above are Type B, from the private collection of Trish Kaufmann.

Some Sperati reproductions are signed by the maker, while others bear his reproduction backstamp.

Above is a Sperati signed die proof of the "T-E-N" forgery, a scarce and very collectible item.

Detecting forgeries of the "Frameline" stamp

The first thing that should be looked for is the most obvious. Is the "frameline" a Type I 10-cent design? If it is Type II, it cannot be a genuine "frameline". Even fakes are known with the T-E-N design. Both are a dead giveaway that what you have cannot be a genuine frameline. Look for the plate flaw above the "N" of "CENTS". It is thought that the transfer was damaged during the making of this plate. Consequently, some stamps do not exhibit the flaw, some have been recut to fix the flaw, and some exhibit the flaw, but there will be no filled in corner ornaments and other tell-tale signs of Type II.

The next thing to look for in detecting fakes of the frameline is to examine the color of the lines and compare them to the color of the stamp. This will usually expose the fake immediately. Unfortunately, scanners typically do not capture the true color of stamps well, and color also depends on the computer monitor used. Thus, this method is seldom very dependable when looking at scans alone. The stamps themselves must be examined. If the lines are obviously a different color, you should assume that the item is fake. If the colors appear to match, other characteristics should be used to evaluate the stamp further. If you hadn't guessed, the illustrated frameline stamp has drawn in lines, which are lighter in color than the rest of the design and not raised (engraved).

The quality of the lines should be examined. They should be straight and smooth, of fairly even thickness and not significantly inclined. If the lines are shaky or wavy, the lines most likely have been painted by hand. On the plate that produced the #10, lines were applied by drawing an engraver's burin along a straightedge. There were places where the lines may be slightly thicker due to repositioning the straightedge and restarting the burin, but the lines should still be straight. Immersion in water may reveal faked lines, as most of the fakes lines were ruled in water color ink.

Toothless Old Man

The "Toothless Old Man" forgery of #9, not illustrated here, is rather crude and would not fool an experienced collector of Confederates. It has a portrait background of only vertical lines. The lower jaw juts out relative to the lips. The hairline in front of the ear is heavily drawn and dark. The front point of the bust is thicker than on the genuine stamp. Below the ear on line with the jaw line is a small dot of color that is not present on the original.

Caveat Emptor - Perforated Issues

A March 2007 Mail Bid sale had the stamp pictured at left with the following description. "12 VF, OG, sm flts, Privately Perforated 14x14". Genuine perforated stamps are "officially perforated" 12 1/2. There are several unofficially (private) perforated issues as well, but they don't look like this. They are generally very crude and range from "sewing machine perfs" to "sawtooth" design. There will be another "Trouble Spots" section eventually to deal with this sticky subject. Another clue here is that it is a Keatinge and Ball print, which were never perforated officially. If you are not an expert in this area, it is wise to buy with option to get the stamp expertized.